BRIARGROVE BULLMASTIFFS

The Gentle Guardian is possibly the most appropriate description one could give to the Bullmastiff. This breed of dog  was relatively unknown for a long time but nowadays maybe the best choice for the family that wants good dependable protection for the family members and their home. Currently there are many breeds of dogs that are very popular as watchdogs. However the majority of these breeds are used for home protection or watchdogs because they are vicious by nature. The problem with this type of dog is that he doesn’t only attack burglars, thieves etc. but is also likely to bite friends of the family or relatives or even children that may come into the yard, because he is just plain vicious.... or possibly a fear biter.

This is where the Bullmastiff differs from most of the other breeds. The Bullmastiff is a very gentle dog by nature. His goal in life is to please his master and family. He becomes devoted to them and will protect the family and their property if he feels there is a genuine need for his intervention.

The Bullmastiff will accept and lavish all the petting of neighborhood children and friends of the family he can get. However, if his master or family shows genuine apprehension or is actually attacked, the Bullmastiff will defend them ......not because he is vicious but because he devoted to them and this protective instinct is born in him and requires no special training.

Some Bullmastiffs have been trained to attack on command as can many breeds of dog if trained correctly. However, many people familiar with dogs trained to attack will tell you that the only place for such dogs is in the hands of an expert handler and has no place in the hands of an ordinary citizen as there have been to many tragedies caused by attack trained dogs getting into the wrong hands or getting out of control.

The Bullmastiff has been recognized as a true breed for a relatively short time as compared to some of the other breeds of dogs and was first accepted for registration in England where the breed originated in 1924 and was accepted for registration by the American Kennel Club in 1933. This basic type or breed of dog has been in existence for possibly several hundred years in England according to some dog historians, they were called by different names during different periods of time, and early reference to dogs called "Mongrel Mastiffs,""Small Mastiff,""Strong Bulldogs" etc, were believed to refer to this basic breed.

Finally in the mid-nineteenth century the crossing of the large Mastiff and the early day Bulldogs (which don't resemble today’s Bulldogs at all, The early Bulldogs were,in fact, quite sizeable and heavily boned and held their roots within the mastiff breed though some terrier had been introduced to their makeup)

The outcome (i.e the Bullmastiff) became quite popular with Gamekeepers that were charged with keeping down poaching on game reserves and large estates in England. The dog created by crossing the two breeds seemed ideal for the requirements of the Gamekeepers as they needed a dog what would protect them from the poachers who often ambushed and killed the Gamekeepers if given a chance.

As the poachers usually worked at night it was only natural that a good dog would be of great assistance. The dogs resulting from the Bulldog and Mastiff cross resulted in an active but compact and powerful dog, large enough to down the poacher and hold him to allow the Gamekeeper to take him into custody. These dogs inherited the best characteristics of the two breeds it originated from and came up with some qualities not possessed by either of its parent breeds.

This Bulldog and Mastiff crosses became so popular as helpers of the Gamekeepers that they were commonly known for many years as the "GAMEKEEPERS NIGHT DOGS’.

There were many incidents recorded during this era telling of these "Keepers Night Dogs" being able to take armed men down and holding them. Some of these incidents were in the Gamekeepers actual work..... while other such incidents took place at exhibitions to demonstrate the qualities of the dogs produced by the various breeders of the day. The dogs did not "bite" as such ,but chose to down the "offender" by sheer brute stregnth and stand over him until the keeper showed up to take over the role.

 

During some of the exhibitions and even on some occasions in the field, the dogs were called upon to down armed men while muzzled and were able to do so, which gives some idea of the strength and determination these dogs possessed when aroused. Many of the gamekeepers gave their dogs credit for saving their lives.

It is hard to imagine that this sedate, often lazy and amiable dog could be capable of handling such fiercesome situations.

After the passing of this Nightkeepers Dog era the breed has been used mostly as a watchdog and companion dog in many countries and became quite popular in Africa during the early 1950’s due to the Mau Mau uprisings and were imported to that continent by the white settlers who found them not only good for protection against the Mau Mau but also beneficial in protecting livestock from predators such as lynx, leopard, baboons and other such animals.

The Bullmastiff is a very large dog but  not a giant breed. Most Bullmastiffs will stand from 24 to 27 to inches in height at the shoulder and weigh from 90 to 130 pounds when mature. The dogs have a very sizeable bone structure .They are large in build and are heavy for their size as they are compactly built. A Bullmastiff weighing 130 pounds will appear to be a much smaller dog  heightwise than most other breeds in this same weight class because of the "compactly square" but burly frame of the dog 

Bullmastiffs may be any shade of fawn ,red or brindle, with fawns being more popular today. However the brindles were much more in demand in the old gamekeeper days as they were impossible to see after dark as the brindle coloring has a camouflage effect after dark and currently the somewhat rare brindles seem to be making a comeback.

The Bullmastiff’s ears are not cropped, his tail is not docked and he has a short coat so he requires no special grooming or preparation as there is nothing artificial or false in his makeup which is quite a contrast to many other more popular breeds that do need various forms of special trimming or grooming to look their best, hence their looks are changed in order to allow them to do well at the dog shows. In the Bullmastiff breed, performance and soundness are considered more important than a racy appearance. They are undoubtedly a large thick-set stocky animal. They always were and they always should be. That is them. That is the Mastiff,the ancient breed that lies within. 

Ideally a person that purchases a Bullmastiff should have a fenced in yard, and a person should not get a Bullmastiff unless he wants a dog to take in just like another member of the family, as the Bullmastiff responds best to this type of treatment.

Bullmastiffs however,can live quite happily in an apartment or flat as they dont usually go hareing around the place. "Sedate" is their second name.  Apartment dogs,however would require an owner who was capable of excercising the animal several times per day.

Young Bullmastiffs should be allowed to socialize with friendly dogs and other pets at an early age and should never be taken around other dogs that will starting fights as after a few such encounters the Bullmastiff is likely to find out how tough he really is and start to enjoy fighting (people often laugh at a scrappy small dog such as a terrier or the like, however when you have a dog with the power of a Bullmastiff that have been known to kill baboons and other large predators single-handed, it’s no laughing matter to have him turned into a habitual fighter) It is therefore very important to get the Bullmastiff socialized with friendly dogs at an early age. If so conditioned the Bullmastiff is as tractable on neutral territory as any other breed, but they usually resent strange dogs coming into their home or yard as they figure this as their personal territory.

As with many fairly large dogs, it’s best to start obedience training at an early age. The bullmastiff is quick to learn and his main desire is to please his master and praise coupled with firmness will give you a  disciplined dog if you are consistent in you application of both.

Bullmastiff’s often do not gain their full confidence until they are about two years old so the owner should not expect him to really come into his own until he reaches this age. After he matures he is one of the best if not the best watchdog available if a situation arises that requires his intervention.

Many people who see a bullmastiff playing with children or other friendly persons just cannot believe this breed can be anything but friendly. However if the need arises the Bullmastiff can quickly take on about a 180 degree change in his personality and can change from a friendly clown into the most determined attack dog imaginable, and punishment that would cause some of the other breeds of dogs (that are famous for their viciousness) to let out a yelp and run for cover would just anger a Bullmastiff to a greater degree as he will fight any man or animal unto his death if necessary, usually to protect his master to whom he is so devoted.

Because this breed is so friendly and stable but brave and powerful if the need arises, he may be the dog that is best suited in today’s society to help cut down on the soaring crime rates especially assault cases, without having to read about so many children having half their faces bitten off by vicious watchdogs in newspapers.

This breed like any breed is not a miracle dog and will certainly not fill the requirements of every household, however a family that really likes and understands dogs and wishes a steady dependable home companion and have room for an upper medium size dog may wish to check into the Bullmastiff.

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COMMON AILMENTS FOLLOWED BY BREED STANDARD

GROWING PAINS.  Large breed dogs are often found to have such things as growing pains, more correctly known as panosteitis. This happens during puppy hood, usually starts at about 4 - 6 months old, and generally causes pain in all the joints and/or bones (humerus and femur being most common). Because the dogs grow so quickly and their bodies are growing so much everyday, this takes a big toll on the muscles and tendons. Too much exercise, or rough play is hard on a pup. This condition is usually self-limiting, but if the pup really seems to be suffering, take it to your veterinarian and get proper care. Excercise should be carefully monitored in a puppy under the age of one year as this is when they are likely to do most damage to tendons,ligaments and joints.

All in all,it must be noted that despite the size your Bullmastiff may grow to ,that over excercising IS NOT GOOD at ANY age. That does not mean to say that your Bullmastiff should not enjoy his or her excercise but only that it should be carefully supervised.

A good owner will learn to know her pet's limits. Some Bullmastiffs may require more activity than others. It is up to the RESPONSIBLE owner to monitor and assess. 

 

HIP DYSPLASIA. Mild to moderate hip dysplasia is common reality in large breeds. They are not small dogs and their hips tend to be a bit looser in general. Too much exercise at any age is to be avoided. Rough  play etc.with a pup can lead to permanent injury to hips and elbows. Hip Dysplasia is found in many large breeds, not only the  Bullmastiff but many others too. It would be wise to check with your vetinarian if you suspect any issues regarding HD.

ELBOW DYSPLASIA. Though commonly referred to as elbow dysplasia, this actually encompasses a few individual specific problems with the elbow joint. Bullmastiffs can be prone to this problem, in common with some of the other larger breeds.

BLOAT. Bloat sadly affects many of the larger breeds in particular and it can kill. There are several ways of helping to prevent this.

1) Do not feed your dog one Large meal per day. It is much more preferable give the proportionate amount of food to your dog by splitting it into two meals.....say morning and evening. Some folk I know even split the amount into three meals.

2) If possible,raise your dog's food bowls off the floor. There are dog "feeding stations" available from every good petstore. Prices may vary but they need not be expensive. If the "food station" can readily hold your animal's food and water bowls without any mishaps then fine.

It would be ideal if your dog didnt have to stoop at all to eat or drink . Having his/her food and water at the right height for the mouth is perfect. One can never completely assure that your dog will never succumb to bloat but it does pay to try to do your best to help prevent it..

WORMS- Dogs can carry several type of worm from threadworm to roundworm to the more horrendous tapeworm. Regular worming of your dog from puppyhood should assure that your animal stays free of such parasites. Your vet will be only too happy to assist. Although there are several over the counter products available at your local pet store...I prefer to go to my vet for these as my vet always weighs my dog to make sure that the dosage is sufficient .

FLEAS,TICKS & MITES- Again I would prefer to rely solely on my vet for regular treatment. Fleas can be a nuisance but can be easier to deal with than the dreaded ticks and mites. Once again if I were you,I would leave all of that in the knowledgeable hands of your vet.

THE GENERAL STANDARD FOR BULLMASTIFFS WITHIN THE U.K. ACCORDING TO THE KENNEL CLUB ARE AS FOLLOWS;-

General Appearance:
Powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, but not cumbersome, sound ,sedate but active when need arises.

Characteristics:
Powerful, enduring, active and reliable.

Temperament:
High spirited, alert and faithful.

Head & skull:
Skull large and square, viewed from every angle, fair wrinkle when interested, but not when in repose. Circumference of skull may equal height of dog when measured at top of shoulder; broad and deep with well filled cheeks. Pronounced stop. Muzzle short; distance from tip of nose to stop, approximately one third of length from tip of nose to centre of occiput, broad under eyes and sustaining nearly same width to end of nose; blunt and cut off square, forming right angle with upper line of face, and at the same time proportionate with skull. Underjaw broad to end. Nose broad with widely spreading nostrils; flat neither pointed nor turned up in profile. Flews not pendulous, never hanging below level of lower jaw.

Eyes:
Dark or hazel, of medium size, set apart the width of the muzzle with furrow between. Light or yellow eyes highly undesirable.

Ears:
V-shaped, folded back, set on wide and high, level of occiput giving square appearance to skull which is most important. Small and deeper in colour than body. Point of ear level with eye when alert. Rose ears being highly undesirable.

Mouth:
Level desired but slightly undershot allowed but not preferred. Canine teeth large and wide set apart, other teeth strong, even and well placed.

Neck:
Well arched, of moderate length, very muscular, and almost equal in circumference to the skull.

Forequarters:
Chest, wide and deep, well let down between forelegs, with deep brisket. Shoulders muscular, sloping and powerful, not overloaded. Forelegs powerful and straight, well boned, set wide apart presenting a straight front. Pasterns straight and strong.

Body:
Back short and straight, giving compact carriage, but not so short as to interfere with activity. Roach and sway backs highly undesirable.

Hindquarters:
Loins Wide and muscular with fair depth of flank. Hind legs strong and muscular, with well developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, but not cumbersome. Hocks moderately bent.. Cowhocks highly undesirable.

Feet:
Well arched, cat like, with rounded toes, pads hard. Dark toenails desirable. Splay feet highly undesirable.

Tail:
Set high, strong at root and tapering, reaching to hocks, carried straight or curved, but not hound fashion. Crank tails highly undesirable.

Gait:
Movement indicates power and sense of purpose. When moving straight neither front or hind legs should cross or plait, right front and left rear leg rising and falling at same time. A firm backline unimpaired by powerful thrust from hindlegs denoting a balanced and harmonious movement. Coat: Short and hard, weather resistant, lying flat to body. Long, silky or woolly coats highly undesirable.

Colour:
Any shade of Red, fawn, or brindle; colour to be pure and clear. A slight white marking on chest permissible. Other white markings undesirable. Black muzzle essential, toning off towards eyes, with dark markings around eyes contributing to expression.

Size: 
DOGS:-  Height at shoulder: 63.5-68.5 cms. (25-27 ins)

               Weight ; 50 to 59 kilos ( 110 to 130 pounds)

 

Bitches:- Height at shoulder ;  61 - 66 cms (24  -26 ins)

              Weight :  41 to 50 kilos   ( 90 to 110 pounds) 

 

The above sizes and weights are a prefered standard. However,as with humans,the genetics often dictate the size and weight of your animal.

It would be true to say that not every Champion dog or bitch has been within that exact height or weight range. Many times taller animals have won many an accolade simply because the height to weight ratio has been spot on and  has "married" perfectly.

 Naturally an animal that is an inch or so taller will be several pounds heavier.

 Quite often a judge will judge an  animal  as a superb specimen if ,despite an extra inch or two,it is totally in proportion and well-toned  and presenting all of the above mentioned qualities.

Though it is preferable to try to adhere to the standard when  judging or showing ,quite often when there are a variety of animals from different Kennels or Bloodlines in the ring it can be hard to choose "THE RIGHT" dog as each bloodline often has it's own specific trait and more often each trait can prove a very attractive sight to the onlooker.  

Faults:
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.

Note:
Male animals should have 2 apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum

Copyright © The Kennel Club